Hydronic heating converters

There are three 3 common variations of heating loops:. The Series Loop is simple, but maybe too simple. How can you go wrong? Pipe from one radiation element to the next and close the loop from and to the boiler. The effects can be:. The Split Loop by nature is more efficient, requiring less power to move water and lessens the temperature heat differential across radiation significantly. Plan ahead. The Monoflo w Loop is a technique that is currently seldom used due to cost.

It takes a little more pipe and time to configure and requires a little more circulator to drive through the required venturi tee fittings. But if you want nearly simultaneous delivery and even heating — this is it! Most often found on older baseboard or converted cast-iron radiator systems. There is additionally a seldom used Two Pipe, Reverse Return Method as a proven way to evenly supply larger radiators or other convectors. Rule-of-thumb methods will oversize your system by a ridiculous amount.

Take the time to do it right. If you don't know how to do a heat-loss calculation, check with someone who does know. Once you get an accurate heat loss calculation, measure the existing radiation for square footage of Equivalent Direct Radiation EDR. You're trying to find out if the radiation that's already in the building will be able to heat the place once the relatively cooler hot water is flowing through it.

Keep in mind that one-psi steam in a radiator will bring the surface of that radiator up to degrees. Hot water, by comparison, is usually only about degrees, tops. A square foot of steam EDR will put out Btuh.

Convert that radiator to hot water and you're only going to get about Btuh out of that same square foot of radiation. So, for instance, if you have a five-tube, 26" high, section, cast-iron radiator running on steam, it will emit 8, Btuh. Convert the system to degree hot water and you'll get only 5, Btuh out of that radiator. Once you've gone through that exercise, ask yourself if this lesser output from the radiators will be enough to heat each room on the coldest day of the year.

This depends on the heat loss, and that's why you have to take the time to do both an accurate heat loss calculation AND a survey of the existing radiation. If, after you've done your homework, you find the existing radiation can carry the heat loss on the coldest day of the year, you can move on to the next step. Check the system for leaks. Keep in mind a steam system is used to seeing only about two-psi steam pressure.

If there are leaks anywhere, you might not have noticed them at such a low pressure. This is especially true if the leaks are in the return lines.

But when you fill the system with water the static pressure is going to be a lot higher. You'll notice those leaks for sure! It's so much better to find them before the conversion, if you can.

A two-story hot water system will have at least psi static pressure on it. A three-story building will have psi pressure, and so on. Add in the pump's pressure along with the pressure of the expanding water as it heats and you can see the dramatic difference between steam and hot water. So before you commit to the job, raise the steam pressure to about psi pressure and walk through the entire system looking for leaks. If they're there, they should show up under the increased steam pressure.

Once you see them, you'll have a better idea of what you're up against, and you'll be able to make the decision as to whether or not you should move on from here.

Next, if the system looks sound, you can take out the tools and go to work. Again, be especially aware of any old Vapor equipment. There's a big difference in size between the supply and return lines in a steam system so balancing will always be a challenge when you're running on hot water. Leave the old radiator supply valves in place if they're working.

You'll be able to use them for balancing the flow and the heat once you have the system up and running. Most two-pipe steam systems are similar to two-pipe, direct-return hot water systems. The big difference is that, unlike a hot water system, the return line doesn't increase much in size as it returns to the boiler. A leading Italian manufacturer of high quality components for domestic and commercial heating systems. A truly global brand with over years experience that provides industry leading HVAC products and precise temperature control solutions.

When installing a hydronic heating system, it is extremely important to have your system installed by a licensed plumber.

Not only does a licensed plumber have the right skills and training for installing, repairing and replacing your hydronic heating system, they also have the the right expertise, insurances and will ensure your warranty remains intact should something go wrong with your product. Your plumber will provide you with the reassurance and peace of mind with respect to the complexity of the job at hand, saving you a lot of time and money in the long run.

Need help choosing the right system or ready to organise your installation? Call your local Reece HVAC branch today or complete the form below and we can help you through the process. Discover the benefits of hydronic heating, The healthiest way to heat your home. The Reece HVAC network are experts in all things hydronic heating, chat to our team in-store to get the detail you need when looking at installing a hydronic heating system or to get in touch with an installer.

Our Reece HVAC staff have an array of knowledge in all things hydronic heating to find the best solution for you. Reece HVAC has a national network of 36 branches so you'll be sure to find a branch close by which can service your needs. We test products in an in-house testing facility, with a specific area for hydronic heating systems.

Our after-sales service team at Customer Care are there to provide support for the life of your product. Find the answers you need to some of the most common hydronic heating questions. Water is heated in a boiler or heat pump and is circulated around the house through piping in the walls, roof or under the floor. The warm water then travels into panel radiators which are installed in each room to transfer the radiant heat to the air and objects spreading heating evenly around the room.

In the case of underfloor heating the water is circulated around coils of piping in the structural slab or in a topping screed which then heats the whole surface and radiant heat into the room.

Hydronic heating evenly distributes a natural radiant heat through the space for unparalleled all-over comfort. Near silent operation and low ongoing run-ning costs makes hydronic heating the perfect choice for home heating. Comfort - Hydronic heating provides superior comfort by evenly heating any room or area with radiant heat to achieve a comfortable natural warmth.

Efficiency - Hydronic heating is highly efficient as it uses water to move heat around your home instead of air. As water is an excellent conductor of heat, this allows the heat to be transferred around your home with ease and last much longer reducing your overall heating costs.

Flexibility - There are many hydronic heating methods available including: underfloor heating, hydronic radiator panels and diffusion plates that make hydronic adaptable to both new and existing homes.

Because heat rises, hydronic heating is one of the most efficient ways to heat your home.